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Mulching

Most online forums are filled with new gardeners with limited experience who ask a lot of questions. Many of the questions are about mulch. Specifically, which kind to use, how much to apply, and whether they should work it in or just layer it on top. The replies are just as numerous—and often just as confusing. It can be hard to sift through the noise to find what actually works.

These well-meaning folks who reply often repeat hearsay or best guesses and inadvertently pass along inaccurate advice. I’m no horticulture expert, but I’ve been around enough of them to learn the good, the bad, and the ugly of mulching—and you probably have to be over 50 to get that reference.

So what kind of mulch should we use, and how do we apply it?

Well, I'm going to start off by telling you what to avoid. Stay away from anything with a dye in it. Regardless of what your local landscaper or big-box store expert recommends on this subject, the dyed mulches can be bad for your soil and your plants.

Here's why: Dyed mulch is often made from low-quality recycled wood. Usually sourced from pallets or construction sites, this wood—even when labeled as a "cypress blend"—can contain unwanted chemicals or paint that can leach into your soil. Even if you aren't into organic gardening, this should raise an eyebrow or two.

Secondly, stay away from plastic or rubber mulches. These mulches will not add any nutrients to the soil as they break down—which is one of the biggest reasons to use mulch in the first place. They also tend to discolor as they age and generally retain more heat. The additional heat may encourage the wrong type of microbial or bacterial growth.

Also, as rubber breaks down, it converts to microplastics and heavy metals such as lead and zinc. Many rubber mulches have a pungent, undesirable, chemical odor. None of that belongs in your garden—especially an edible one.

No, what you want is a natural mulch. Something that comes from your yard, such as grass clippings (if processed), or something with no hidden additives. My favorite is shredded pine bark.

Many folks use shredded cypress or pine straw as well. Shredded cypress is my second choice, and the best option if you want something that really stays where you put it. Even after heavy rains, cypress mulch will stay put. The only drawbacks are the higher cost and the environmental concerns about whether cypress forests are being properly replanted.

Pine straw is okay, but I don't consider it to be the best option. Pine straw, in my opinion, looks great in the landscape, but takes a long time to break down. It provides minimal nutrients as it composts, and takes a much thicker layer to obtain the same level of effectiveness. Aesthetics aside, the real upside to pine straw is the cost—you can usually find it for free.

I prefer pine bark because it's all-natural, affordable, decomposes relatively quickly, and provides a wealth of nutrients as it breaks down. Pine is also one of the most farmed and replanted trees in the country. If you use the shredded variety instead of the nuggets, it will stay in place almost as well as the cypress mulch does. A two-inch layer on top of your soil will help regulate temperature, retain moisture, and feed for a long time. I usually mix some of it into the soil as well. Many will tell you this is a bad habit because it robs the soil of needed nitrogen as it decomposes. This is somewhat valid; it does tie up some nitrogen, but it gives it all back—and more—once the decomposition is complete. To compensate for this, I'll usually add a little extra fertilizer into my mix in the beginning. This prevents the nitrogen deficiency they worry about.

When it comes to mulching trees or shrubs, shredded pine bark is still my go-to mulch. I still lay it down about two inches thick but keep it about an inch or two away from the trunk. This will prevent moisture buildup and rot at the base and keep the shrub or tree healthy. Have you ever driven past someone's yard and seen where they've set up a volcano around the base of their trees?

Yeah, not good—all that extra moisture retention and rotting wood up against the base of the tree. It’s a perfect breeding ground for mold, bacteria, bugs, and other undesirables. Keeping mulch off the trunks feeds the soil without harming the tree.

I hope this clears up the mystery of mulch. It’s not only easy to apply, but it also goes a long way toward helping you create a thriving, beautiful landscape.

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