Basic Soil Information and What I Use as a Mix
Soil management is a deep science, but you don’t need a doctorate to understand the basics that matter in the garden.
So, what exactly is soil? In short, it’s a complex mixture of minerals, organic materials, air, and water. When these components are present in the right proportions, they create a living, dynamic environment that properly supports plant life.
A “healthy, loamy” soil is typically considered to be a balanced mix of 45% minerals, 5% organic matter, 25% water, and 25% air. This balance creates a soil that drains well yet holds enough moisture and nutrients for roots to thrive.
Plants rely on a predictable supply of nutrients, and gardeners usually group these into two categories: primary and secondary.
The primary nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The secondary nutrients are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). There are also many micronutrients—such as iron, manganese, and boron—but we usually don’t deal with those directly.
While that may sound complex, it’s easier to achieve than it seems. If most of your gardening is done in-ground, it’s advisable to visit your local extension office for a soil sample kit. They will provide you with specific instructions and drop-off locations. The process usually involves analyzing multiple samples to determine the overall soil quality across your garden area. The cost for this is minimal and well worth the time and effort.
When it comes to container gardening, you have complete control over what is mixed into the soil and how well it will eventually sustain plant life. You can use a premix or mix your own. If you only have a few containers, a premix is the easiest and least expensive way to go. On a larger scale, however, mixing your own is a lot more cost-effective.
A premixed soil labeled specifically for containers (potting mix) is the best choice. Avoid garden or in-ground soils, which are usually too heavy, compact too easily, and restrict root growth. A good potting mix should include a generous amount of vermiculite or peat moss, along with perlite, to keep the soil light and well-aerated. However, other things can be added in lieu of perlite if you like, and coco coir can be used instead of peat moss. This combination creates a loamy, well-draining medium that supports healthy plant development.
When I mix my own potting soil, I start with a one cubic foot bag of generic compost. It makes a solid foundation, and the brand I use usually includes enough sand to improve aeration and drainage. To that, I add about 10–12 handfuls of peat moss and 7–8 handfuls of shredded pine bark mulch, along with a bit of pelletized lime and a general purpose fertilizer such as triple 8 or triple 10. I blend everything thoroughly and use the mix to fill all my containers.
Once the plants reach 3–4 inches in height, I add a layer of pine bark mulch on top. This mulch helps retain moisture, moderates soil temperature, and gradually enriches the soil as it decomposes. I use a general-purpose, balanced fertilizer because the soil mix can vary quite a bit.
For example, peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite contribute to the soil's structure and help with moisture control, but they don't provide nutrients. Compost can vary widely in nutrient content, and pine bark mulch tends to lower soil pH slightly and consume nitrogen as it decomposes. Adding a balanced fertilizer smooths out these inconsistencies.
Adding lime helps raise the pH back toward neutral and adds calcium to the mix, which helps prevent blossom end rot. The overall combination helps create a more stable environment for plants to thrive.
Once plants start to grow, you can continue using the balanced fertilizer monthly during the growing season, and you can even dilute it to about half-strength for that purpose.
Many people prefer to use a slow-release fertilizer at the beginning and middle of the season to take the guesswork out of it. Fertilizer is released each time your plant is watered. Not only is it balanced, but most brands also contain many of the micronutrients plants need.
Whichever path you choose, once your soil is set, it’s easy to maintain and provides a rock-solid foundation for your garden. Following the individual advice for each particular plant will help ensure a productive and rewarding experience.
Here are some links to very good information by the Mississippi State University-Extension Service:
https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/composting-for-the-mississippi-gardener https://extension.msstate.edu/lawn-and-garden/vegetable-gardens/soil-preparation https://extension.msstate.edu/raised-beds https://extension.msstate.edu/agriculture/soils/soil-testing/how-collect-soil-sample
So, what exactly is soil? In short, it’s a complex mixture of minerals, organic materials, air, and water. When these components are present in the right proportions, they create a living, dynamic environment that properly supports plant life.
A “healthy, loamy” soil is typically considered to be a balanced mix of 45% minerals, 5% organic matter, 25% water, and 25% air. This balance creates a soil that drains well yet holds enough moisture and nutrients for roots to thrive.
Plants rely on a predictable supply of nutrients, and gardeners usually group these into two categories: primary and secondary.
The primary nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The secondary nutrients are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). There are also many micronutrients—such as iron, manganese, and boron—but we usually don’t deal with those directly.
While that may sound complex, it’s easier to achieve than it seems. If most of your gardening is done in-ground, it’s advisable to visit your local extension office for a soil sample kit. They will provide you with specific instructions and drop-off locations. The process usually involves analyzing multiple samples to determine the overall soil quality across your garden area. The cost for this is minimal and well worth the time and effort.
When it comes to container gardening, you have complete control over what is mixed into the soil and how well it will eventually sustain plant life. You can use a premix or mix your own. If you only have a few containers, a premix is the easiest and least expensive way to go. On a larger scale, however, mixing your own is a lot more cost-effective.
A premixed soil labeled specifically for containers (potting mix) is the best choice. Avoid garden or in-ground soils, which are usually too heavy, compact too easily, and restrict root growth. A good potting mix should include a generous amount of vermiculite or peat moss, along with perlite, to keep the soil light and well-aerated. However, other things can be added in lieu of perlite if you like, and coco coir can be used instead of peat moss. This combination creates a loamy, well-draining medium that supports healthy plant development.
When I mix my own potting soil, I start with a one cubic foot bag of generic compost. It makes a solid foundation, and the brand I use usually includes enough sand to improve aeration and drainage. To that, I add about 10–12 handfuls of peat moss and 7–8 handfuls of shredded pine bark mulch, along with a bit of pelletized lime and a general purpose fertilizer such as triple 8 or triple 10. I blend everything thoroughly and use the mix to fill all my containers.
Once the plants reach 3–4 inches in height, I add a layer of pine bark mulch on top. This mulch helps retain moisture, moderates soil temperature, and gradually enriches the soil as it decomposes. I use a general-purpose, balanced fertilizer because the soil mix can vary quite a bit.
For example, peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite contribute to the soil's structure and help with moisture control, but they don't provide nutrients. Compost can vary widely in nutrient content, and pine bark mulch tends to lower soil pH slightly and consume nitrogen as it decomposes. Adding a balanced fertilizer smooths out these inconsistencies.
Adding lime helps raise the pH back toward neutral and adds calcium to the mix, which helps prevent blossom end rot. The overall combination helps create a more stable environment for plants to thrive.
Once plants start to grow, you can continue using the balanced fertilizer monthly during the growing season, and you can even dilute it to about half-strength for that purpose.
Many people prefer to use a slow-release fertilizer at the beginning and middle of the season to take the guesswork out of it. Fertilizer is released each time your plant is watered. Not only is it balanced, but most brands also contain many of the micronutrients plants need.
Whichever path you choose, once your soil is set, it’s easy to maintain and provides a rock-solid foundation for your garden. Following the individual advice for each particular plant will help ensure a productive and rewarding experience.
Here are some links to very good information by the Mississippi State University-Extension Service:
https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/composting-for-the-mississippi-gardener https://extension.msstate.edu/lawn-and-garden/vegetable-gardens/soil-preparation https://extension.msstate.edu/raised-beds https://extension.msstate.edu/agriculture/soils/soil-testing/how-collect-soil-sample
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